Lugano is the 9th largest Swiss city and located on the lake of the same name in the Italian-speaking canton of Ticino. Ticino, politically speaking, is of course part of Switzerland and one of two cantons located south of the Swiss Alps (the other canton is Valais). But it is the one that stretches the furthest south into Italy, and the only exclusively Italian-speaking canton.

This is why, for someone coming from the north, Ticino, in most respects, is almost more Italian than it is Swiss when in fact it’s a great mélange of Swiss order and punctuality and Italian conviviality and Dolce Vita. That was exactly what we craved, when north of the Alps, we faced a rainy grey day and 11 degrees in the middle of August. And – this is the beauty of living in Central Switzerland – all that separated us from a dose of Italianità (Italian joy of living) was a 2-hour drive.

After crossing the Passo San Gottardo (Gotthard Pass) at 2106m that traverses the Saint-Gotthard Massif in the Alps, we visited the castles of Bellinzona first and then continued to Lugano. Its lakeside location with palm-fringed beach bars and a lakefront promenade radiated an irresistible holiday vibe, and as we had a couple of hours to explore the area before more pizzas and gelatos for dinner, we set off on the Sentiero dell’olivo (Olive Tree Trail) that winds along the bay towards Gandria.

The first stretch of this route starting from Parco Civico Ciani in Lugano follows along the main road, Via Riviera, but a smaller, quiet road forks off to the right after a kilometre. Continue on this road for another 800m and you’ll arrive at the trailhead to the Sentiero dell’olivo.

Parking spaces at the trailhead are limited and were all taken when we walked past but out of season you may be lucky and save yourself the first leg of the walk along the road.

The trail hugs the shoreline closely, is very well maintained, more or less flat, and well signposted. As we strolled along, I couldn’t think of a better way to soak up the Mediterranean atmosphere. It had been a brilliant decision indeed, swapping raindrops pelting down on the churning water surface of Lake Zug with the sparkles of sunlight reflecting off the water on Lake Lugano.

The trail skirts the steeply rising southern flank of Monte Brè (933m) and passes by restaurants, holiday homes, and well-frequented swimming areas (lidos) that are only accessible on foot or boat, like the Lido San Domenico. In retrospect I cannot recall seeing a single olive tree despite the trail’s promising name but I wasn’t watching out for them either.

Gandria, the destination of this walk, is a sweet hamlet clinging to the steep slopes, like a labyrinth of tiny alleyways and staircases that twist and turn every which way. We followed the signs pointing us to a ferry dock next door to Ristorante Roccabella and on the boat ride back to Lugano enjoyed views of the city, lake, and shoreline from a different perspective.

The region is absolutely gorgeous; so whenever villainous weather strikes Central Switzerland and bright sunshine and 30 degrees are forecast for the South, flee to sunshine, the world’s best pizzas, and gelato!