We’re usually never one to pass up a challenge but since the notion of travelling through Namibia, Botswana, Zambia, Zimbabwe, Malawi, and Tanzania on our own filled us with apprehension more than excitement, we decided to book a tour with Nomad, an experienced tour operator that is proudly ‘100% African owned and managed.’
They offer budget tours where we’d be sleeping in tents, travelling on a bus/truck, and helping with meals. There are many things we loved about this way of travelling, from Cape Town in South Africa to Nairobi in Kenya, on a custom-built truck with twenty-something other travellers of different ages and nationalities and fantastic guides, drivers and cooks who looked after us extremely well and gave us invaluable insights into this amazing unfamiliar continent.
We made friends that we’re still friends with years later and memories that are vivid and touching to this day.
Our means of transport for the long-distance travel in this demanding environment was a converted, customised truck, fitted with seats, large windows, and lockers for storage. It however lacked air-conditioning, sunshades, or any suspension whatsoever (while we couldn’t see the potholes peppering the road through the windscreen, we could feel every single one of them, jolting up through our vertebral discs).
After less than a half hour behind the glass in the blazing sun the stifling heat soared to a suffocating crescendo and the steppe-like landscape devoid of shade-giving trees and the cloudless sky provided no relief. Desperate for any sort of cover, we jammed towels between the window slits but were still drenched in sweat when hours later, we arrived at Marcuskraal Camp near Citrusdal in the midst of lemon trees and imposing red sandstone formations.
On day two, we spent 10 hours on the truck covering 600 kilometres to Orange River, the border river between South Africa and Namibia. As tiring as that drive was for us, we were just sitting there watching the landscape whizz past outside the window, while it must have been awfully exhausting for Morrison our guide and driver, and Davidy our cook, who were working the entire time. In the evening gathered around the campfire – or African television as Morrison put it – we finally encountered African wildlife, just not the kind we’d hoped for.
It was the kind that loves irrigated campgrounds in the midst of an arid desert where small puddles form underneath the rocks surrounding campfire spots. A small scorpion (albeit much more poisonous than its bigger versions of their species) darted between our legs and while ear-shattering shrieks from our travelling companions echoed across the campsite, Davidy caught it in a soup ladle, totally unfazed, like it was just any old ordinary spider.
The next morning, we crossed the border to Namibia and embarked on a six-week road trip across 7 countries: South Africa, Namibia, Botswana, Zambia, Zimbabwe, Malawi, and Tanzania.
For us, joining an Africa Overland Tour was the right decision and I don’t think we’d have travelled further than Namibia on our own. Being part of a larger group with great, experienced guides felt much safer and easier.
Nevertheless, by the end of our 6-week road trip, however, we were more than happy to go our separate ways too and were ready for a proper bed, nice long runs, and some much-needed solitude. We’re both introverts and struggled with the 24/7 proximity to so many people. Also, we’d been camping most nights and missed exercising.
Before embarking on an Africa Overland Tour, it’s really important to understand that this is not a vacation, it’s travel and adventure. There’s very little active relaxation or downtime (12-hour days sitting in a truck is not relaxing) and your participation in camp duties and interaction with the group will keep you busy.
Duties mainly include helping with food preparation, washing up, loading and unloading the truck and your bags, pitching your tent at night and taking it down in the morning. You’re not forced to help with any of it (except pitching your tent), but you won’t make any friends if don’t.
Nomad offers two types of tours: camping and accommodated. Regardless of which category you book, the itinerary, transportation, food etc. will be the same with the only difference between camping and accommodated tours indeed being tent vs bed.
We camped and were provided with a heavy-duty canvas dome tent and sleeping mats. The tent is not waterproof, but you’re provided with a fly-sheet for rainy weather.
Campsites/bush camps vary considerably in quality and don’t always offer hot shower facilities.
The food on the tour was surprisingly good, filling, and catered well for vegetarians. Breakfast consists of tea and coffee, bread and spreads, and cereals, and occasionally also includes fruit, eggs, or porridge. Lunch is mostly sandwiches and salads to keep you going until dinner, which is always a large, cooked meal.
We had two crew members accompany us on the tour at all times: a guide/driver and a cook. As we joined two tours back-to-back, we got to know four Nomad crew members and all four were invaluable and had years of experience managing tours.
Travelling in a group of 20+ strangers does pose some challenges but most people got along extremely well and were fantastic, helpful team players.
The truck is purpose-built to operate under very tough conditions (desert, potholed roads, very high temperatures). It’s not the most comfortable mode of transport however with no a/c, no fridge (but a cooler box), no toilet, no sun-blinds.
Morrison also warned us against opportunity crime multiple times – make sure you don’t leave any valuables openly lying round in the truck while you’re out and about exploring, especially in a city.
The tour company will provide you with an itinerary, an extensive packing list (less is more), and an essential pre-departure information briefing.
Some of the Must-Haves include:
– antimalarials (we tested both Lariam – 1 tablet weekly – and Malarone – 1 tablet daily – on different visits to Africa and had no issues/side effects with either)
– proper mosquito repellent
– toilet paper and wet wipes (proper toilet facilities are rare on backcountry roads so you’ll use the “bush toilet” a lot and wet wipes are invaluable)
– light-coloured, loose-fitting clothing (mosquitoes are attracted to dark colours like blue and black – don’t wear those, but light-coloured clothes instead. Be aware though that the desert sand gives everything a nice orange colour)
– memory foam travel pillow
– yellow fever certificate and proof of travel medical insurance
– US$ (the preferred currency in most African countries we visited) and at least two credit card that don’t charge foreign transaction/withdrawal fees
– visas: visa requirements vary depending on your nationality. We always received a visa on arrival, but three fellow travellers from Uruguay had to purchase visas for most countries months before their trip. Contact your embassy to find out what’s required in your case.