Hike   |   Quindio   |   Colombia

Cocora Valley Hike in Colombia’s magical cloud forest

Text   |   Anninka Kraus
Photography   |   Tobias Kraus

Colombia Quindio Placeholder
Colombia Quindio

Colombia’s Cocora Valley, famous for its tall wax palm trees – the tallest palms in the world, in fact – and mystical cloud forest, is home to one of the country’s best short-distance hikes, an 8.5km loop that gains 580m in elevation as it climbs up through montane rainforest in Los Nevados National Natural Park.

 

The wafts of mist clinging to the treetops are such an essential part of the experience and scenery, you’ll be lucky to hike on a day with light rain (not a torrential downpour, of course) and the sun peeking through the clouds occasionally. Mind you, the trek will be incredibly muddy, but it’s a small price to pay for the magical view of such pretty and lush greenery.

 

The Cocora Valley is a 25-minute drive from the small coffee town of Salento, one of the prettiest we visited in Colombia’s Coffee Triangle, and a great place to stop for coffee on the way back from your hike.

 

There are several hiking trails in the Cocora Valley, catering to different levels of fitness and time constraints, but if you have the time and some hiking experience, I strongly recommend walking the long route in an anticlockwise direction.

 

That way, you’ll start with a short stretch across rural farmland, then climb up through the jungle, rock-hopping across streams and balancing across wobbly wooden swing bridges, before you reach the highest elevation at 2925 m above sea level with the clouds usually hanging very low, saving the most memorable and scenic section of the trail for last – the descent on a wide path through the valley with two great viewpoints of the Palm Grove.

 

This is where you’ll see the skinny, smooth trunks close-up, their silvery colour with dark rings, which contrasts beautifully with the bright green grassy hills and dark, menacing clouds that often roll in in the afternoon. Walking in an anticlockwise direction, you’ll face a slightly tougher uphill section at the start, but personally, I preferred the muddiest trail sections to be on the uphill rather than the downhill walk.

Just be aware that you will not be walking among palm trees all the time – this hike meanders in more or less equal parts through farmland, cloud forest and the famous wax palm valley.

 

It is not a difficult hike (although it can get very muddy and therefore slippery), and it’s unlikely that you’ll get lost as you’ll probably share the trail with plenty of other people. Trail markers are rare, however, and there are quite a few trail junctions, so you might want to download the gpx file all the same.

 

Also, we found widely differing distance information and trail maps online, which was a little confusing, but from what we know, this 8.5km loop is the long route that most people follow with the option of adding a side trip to the Hummingbird House.

Los Nevados National Park   |   Quindio
Hike   |   Loop trail   |   3-5 hours

track details.

Start/End: Via al Valle del Cocora, 25 minutes from Salento
Distance: 8.5km
Time: 3-5 hours
Elevation: 580 meters (+/-) (lowest point: 2390m / highest point: 2925m)
Difficulty: moderate; the trail can be very muddy especially after heavy rains and is quite steep in parts
Where and getting there: The Cocora Valley is a 25-minute drive from Salento and accessible by car. If you’ve got your own car, park at one of the private parking lots near the trailhead (we paid 5000 COP in parking fees for a half day). Another option is shared jeeps, called Willys, that leave Salento roughly every 30 minutes to 1 hour, and you can also arrange private transport at most hotels or guesthouses. If you take a shared jeep, it’s apparently best to leave early and finish your hike by 4 pm at the latest to be sure to get a ride back to Salento.
Where to stay: Salento is a good place to stay if you’re planning to do the Cocora Valley hike, as it’s only a 25-minute drive to the trailhead from there. Also, Salento offers plenty of accommodation and restaurant options, as does Filandia, another lovely coffee town.
Where to eat: There were a few stalls selling food and drinks at the trailhead, but I’m not sure there was anything suitable to take on a hike. Better take your own snacks and maybe also a picnic lunch if you’re hiking over lunchtime.
When to go: you can expect rain in the Cocora Valley at any time of the year, usually in the afternoons, but if you go in the dry season (December to February and June to August) there’s a good chance the trail won’t be awfully muddy.
How to prepare: Take rain gear, sturdy boots, plenty of water and snacks. If you’re hiking over lunchtime, you might want to take a picnic lunch.
Options: If you’re short on time or not that enthusiastic a hiker, but want to see the wax palms all the same, there’s a shorter route, an out & back trail at the very end of the road which will take you straight to the wax palms.
If you hike the long loop described in this post, you also have the option of adding an out & back side trip to the Hummingbird house, which is not included in the track details, but there are trail markers on the main trail pointing in its direction.
Permit: You’ll need to pay an admission fee twice, at both ends of the trail, which was 15000 COP (US$ 3 / € 3) in total at the end of 2022. The prices seem to change frequently, however, so you might want to bring some extra cash. There’s also an additional entry fee for the Hummingbird House, 15000 COP (US$ 3 / € 3) at the time.