The 4 Lakes Hike in the Jochpass region between Melchsee-Frutt and Engelberg is hailed as one of the most beautiful in Central Switzerland. I, however, couldn’t muster quite as much enthusiasm for this trail to start with – the scenery I found lacking in the grandness promised particularly in bad weather and it felt like more of a walk than a hike especially as we started out on paved roads at the beginning of the trail.

But no sooner did the clouds clear than I saw why this hike is indeed one of the most stunning in Central Switzerland.

Midway to Jochpass, clouds enveloped us with their cold, clammy fingers and after what had been a magnificent summer, I was ill-prepared for the measly 15 degrees. Visibility was reduced and what I at first thought was a boulder blocking the path turned out to be a cow lying down on the narrow trail surrounded by enormous cowpats.

Lost in this murkiness were views of the Bernese Alps, the snow-capped Mt Titlis – at 3.238m Central Switzerland’s highest peak – and rich blue shades of four mountain lakes – three natural and one manmade – that allegedly embellish the alpine landscape on a nicer day. The hike is not to blame for the weather of course.

And when the grey hues of mist separated from the equally grey mountain face and one of the lakes unexpectedly flooded the panorama with colour or Titlis Glacier added a new shade of grey at least, the scenery easily compared to the 5-Lakes Trail at Pizol, to mention just one track that impressed me with stunning scenery.

I would love to give the trail another try on a sunnier day especially when we have visitors who prefer a walk on the flat to a backcountry hike.

This route is not a round trip and we arrived at Melchsee-Frutt by train, bus and cable car via Lucerne, Sarnen and Stöckalp.

On the last leg, we had the cable car cabin to ourselves. People were still waiting in line for a cabin designed for eight passengers when we boarded, but the Swiss like their privacy and respect yours. So, we floated noiselessly above the treetops to 1.920m by ourselves.

The mountainscape and lake panorama on the first stretch winding around Lake Melch and Lake Tannen – where we already strayed from the actual 4 Lakes Trail to escape the road – is a wonderful area to breathe mountain air in flip-flops or onboard a Petit Train (Fruttli train) that operates between Lake Melch and Tannalp.

We walked past hotels, restaurants, shops, the aforementioned Petit Train, a scenic elevator (nice views of Lake Melch), and a chapel for lakeside weddings, and I was suddenly reminded of our stay at a gorgeous campsite in Yellowstone National Park. At the time, we were astonished that the shower blocks (only in the US would 2 showers per person be included each night), a 2-minute drive at walking speed from the site, were only meant to be accessed by car and there wasn’t a footpath. In Switzerland this much comfort (or laziness) in nature is unusual but you’ll find it at Melchsee-Frutt.

Forty-five minutes into our hike, we stood on the shores of Lake Tannen that was besieged by fishermen. Tannalp guesthouse offers fishing packages that include a fishing license and vacuum-packing of any fish caught. I always feel sorry for the fish and was glad none were caught as we circuited the lake.

We abandoned the actual route again at Tannalp and continued on a high trail towards Vogelbuel up the south flank of Graustock that at 2.662m is one of the smaller peaks in the Uri Alps, but not before photographing the most artistic hairdo I have ever seen on a goat. The cool dude held still too, while I took a dozen snapshots from different angles. For a long time, we hiked entirely inside the dreariness of a cloud, which made it difficult to distinguishing strolling cows from stranded boulders.

When the sun suddenly broke through the cloud cover, I halted to a stop. ‘Is that a lake?’ I exclaimed with such incredulity to suggest I thought we were heading through a dessert and not hiking a trail that by name implied four lakes en route with two yet to come. It was Lake Engstlen nestled in Gental valley at 1.850m and hemmed in by the Gadmerflue mountain range opposite and the slope we traversed.

With a great deal of toing and froing, the clouds scrunched up to a dark, menacing grey soup and time and time again tore apart flashing a glimpse of a sparkling yellow that was the sun.

The summit of Titlis never showed through the gloom but the summit station at 3.020m did. It is ridiculously easy nowadays to almost reach the summit of this mountain – starting in Engelberg, two cable cars will whisk you up to the summit station in a half hour. The summit itself however still requires physical effort and the use of crampons on the glacier. The highest point on the 4 Lakes Trail is only 2.207m, but Jochpass mountain pass, which is also a stop on the TITLIS Xpress to Titlis summit station probably offers some amazing views on a nice day.

At Lake Trubsee where a Rega rescue helicopter was practising the evacuation of people in distress, we decided to descend 750m to Engelberg on foot instead of taking the cable car and were glad for the exercise. A bearded vulture, easily recognized by its wedge-shaped tail, circled far above our heads.

It was flapping its long narrow wings more often than I expected for a bird with a wingspan of almost three metres. From Engelberg, trains to Lucerne leave every hour on the hour but in case you arrive at an overcrowded platform, as we did, consider paying extra for a first-class ticket.