When we returned to Switzerland after our travels in 2014, Grosser Mythen at 1.899m, was the second mountain we climbed. This iconic rocky outcrop and its smaller twin, Kleiner Mythen, dominate the landscape on the eastern side of Lake Lucerne in the Canton of Schwyz and make for a remarkable day hike.

Four years later, our memories of that hike were still fresh enough to recall amazing views of the Alps in Cantons Glarus and Uri, and Grosser Mythen Restaurant perched on a minuscule rocky plateau at 1898m, just below the summit. But they had also faded to a point when this majestic landmark, almost defiant looking in its shape, would again be a most rewarding location for the breathtaking ascent through meadows, woods and up the barren rock face.

It is definitely less crowded midweek but working full-time, we were bound to go on a sunny Sunday in July. We expected the trail to be very busy and it was – almost to the point where I would strongly advise against visiting on weekends.

The public transport system in Switzerland is outstanding but a car will still significantly reduce your journey to most trailheads in remote rural areas including to Brunni-Alpthal at 1.100m, the trailhead to Grosser Mythen and roughly an hour’s drive from Zurich and 45 minutes from Zug. The journey by bus (Postauto) via Einsiedeln would have taken us twice as long. In anticipation of the crowds, we pulled into the car park at 8 am but it seemed we were among the last to arrive. Switzerland is a country of early risers and hiking a competitive sport. All work and no play so to speak.

At first, this earnestness with which the Swiss tackle a mountain was almost frightening and their professional equipment intimidating. It wasn’t long however before I realized that this obsession with hiking was founded on a love for the marvellous Swiss alpine scenery and that I too was hooked.

I will never recognize a Swiss mountain (or any other) by its contours but I am now aware that the Swiss can and will vigorously oppose a television commercial passing off a Slovenian mountain as a Swiss one – which, for a marketer, is very tempting with much cheaper production costs in Eastern Europe.

Just as we laced our boots, several hikers returned to the car park, at the end of their hike. They were still wearing headlights and had obviously started in the pitch-black to watch the sunrise from the summit. I was impressed. And felt very lazy when we after a 5-minute uphill walk sat down on a large boulder at the very foot of Grosser Mythen and started our hike with breakfast.

The first leg from Brunni up the north flank of Holzegg to 1.405m is a gentle climb across alpine meadows strewn with wildflowers yet many visitors still prefer a cable car ride. “Luftseilbahn Brunni-Holzegg” operates all-year-around, between 8am and 5pm, and easily surmounts 300 vertical metres in 5 minutes. At the upper cable car station, the large panorama deck of Holzegg restaurant was virtually begging us to stay. Many visitors in fact did and enjoyed the view over coffee and cake for the rest of the day.

Of the others, who were undeterred by the steep, rugged rock face rising just behind Holzegg, and started on the 2.4km Mythenweg, a large number – telling by their red faces and labored breathing – had obviously underestimated the hike. The terrain is not technically difficult for a mountain this imposing.

The greatest challenge were the large number of hikers passing each other on the narrow path. But it’s still a steep, zigzagging hike – 47 zigzags apparently – with no flat sections that requires good stamina. As we scaled bare rock above the tree line, the freestanding mountain offered unhindered views on the entire way up. Grosser Mythen is composed primarily of grey limestone in the lower section and a tip of red marlstone. This change in sediment was a striking contrast of colour from afar and still fascinating up close.

The trail is graded T3 (medium difficulty) but all sections even the least bit exposed are secured with handrails and chains. Just below the summit ridge, there is a narrow exposed passage secured with steel cables that I remembered well, especially the steep drops on both sides. The cables are rather unnecessary as the path is plenty wide, but I was grateful for the reassurance just the same. I’m not a great fan of heights.

Once we gained the summit ridge, Grosser Mythen Restaurant balanced precariously on the narrow ledge at 1.898m with sheer drops almost all around. We enjoyed their legendary home-baked pastries (Nuss- und Mandelgipfel) while we soaked up the splendid panorama of Central Switzerland. If you’re keen, take enough cash because food at this elevation is pricey and they don’t take credit cards.

We returned to Holzegg too early still to call it a day and set off on a circuit around Grosser Mythen via Chalberstöckli and Zwischenmythen. Walking around the mountain actually took us longer than walking up it, but the trail was deserted and the quiet and solitude were a great relief from the earlier hustle.