The trailhead of this 10km loop trail in the Namib Naukluft National Park is located at a small parking lot 4km northeast of Naukluft Camp and doesn’t require prior reservation. Hand drawn maps are available at campsite reception where one is asked to report before the hike for safety reasons.

On the first 2.2km (45min) the path relentlessly climbed 330m in elevation to the top of the plateau with sweeping views of reddish-brown plains and mountain ranges stretching in endless succession to either side.

The sparse vegetation of straw-coloured tussocks and scrawny shrubs that may well have been olive trees exposed the path winding down to a dry riverbed into the next valley that we followed after 400m easy walking across the plateau.

In the valley, our pace slowed steadily on the riverbed we followed ‘downstream’ when the ground became increasingly rocky underfoot. Eventually large boulders blocking the width of the gorge slowed us to a crawl and it was eerily quiet inside the canyon. A world of stone, I thought, showing few signs of life. Except for yellow flowering quiver trees clinging precariously to the red escarpment that rose steeply in distinct wavy rock layers.

After 2:15 hours on the trail we suddenly stood at the edge of a sheer drop to a pool within a narrow cleft. The greenish water sparkled at the bottom of the gorge and created a beautiful contrast to the red stone. But I stood transfixed to the spot that was marked ‘Pool with chains’ on the map.

I looked at these chains attached to the vertical rock face in disbelief and the pool next, and seriously contemplated the long walk back up the riverbed. Balancing across on a skinny ledge, we made it to the other side safely of course but my knuckles turned white as the chain took my weight.