Laguna 69 is a glacial lake of bright turquoise blue colour at 4600m in Huascaran National Park, in the Cordillera Blanca Range near Huaraz and the destination of one of Peru’s most popular day hikes. The hike is fairly short, 13.8km return from the trailhead along AN-106, but entails an 840m elevation gain, making Laguna 69 the perfect trek to acclimatize to the high altitudes of the Peruvian Andes for those hiking the Santa Cruz Trek or Cordillera Huayhuash Circuit.

The photos of Laguna 69 that you see everywhere are not (overly) photoshopped – the setting of the lake to the backdrop of snow-capped mountains is indeed incredibly scenic and definitely worth the effort. It’s not a hike to be underestimated though and requires a reasonably high level of fitness.

Also, there’s the danger of altitude sickness (headache, shortness of breath, nausea etc.) for those not adequately acclimatized. To lower your risk, plan for at least two rest days in Caraz or Huaraz before your hike. That will also give you enough time to organize a taxi to the trailhead or put your name down for an organized tour.

After an early start on the day of your hike, a few hours’ drive on bumpy, winding roads and stopping at the gates to the national park to buy your entry permit, you’ll disembark at a small clearing at the side of the road. The trailhead is a dusty, nondescript spot, but after walking for a couple of minutes and showing your permit at the ranger’s checkpoint, you’re surrounded by astounding mountain scenery for the entire hike.

The opening stretch across the flat meadows alongside the river is surprisingly easy, and not having to watch your every step on the wide path, you can soak up the views of snow-capped peaks ahead and waterfalls plummeting down the sheer rock face on either side of the valley. It’s a very beautiful, albeit short easy stretch to the far end of the valley, before the trek transitions into gentle switchbacks to a small lake where the trail opens out into a small meadowy mountain plateau.

The plateau is flat and a great spot for a little breather about halfway up. You’ll also pass by a trail marker pointing towards Laguna Demanda. We hiked up that little side trail on our way back, but unless you seek solitude, I’m not sure the detour is worth it, as the scenery pales somewhat in comparison to the incredible setting of Laguna 69.

When you reach the edge of this little plateau, you’re in for the hardest part of this hike. The air is noticeably thinner at this point, and it’s quite a relentless climb up some very steep switchbacks until the trail finally levels off at 4600m. Anyone, who’s not previously hiked at that altitude may find this last uphill stretch really challenging, but the reward is worth it: The lagoon lying nestled at the foot of a semi-circle of steep walls that rise steeply to glacier-capped peaks with a long waterfall feeding into the startling turquoise blue water.

It’s a magnificent spot if you get there early, sitting at the lake’s edge and just soaking up the views, but less so once the organized tours arrive and the noise and hustle rob the place of its magic. Despite a very clear sign forbidding swimming in the lake, several people jumped in the minute they arrived at the lakeshore. It’s disrespectful; please don’t.

Because the trail gets so busy, I strongly recommend staying in Caraz, not Huaraz, the night before your hike, which is an hour closer to the trailhead and taking a taxi (we shared one with another couple) instead of joining a tour. It’s more expensive, but you can leave at 6 am and still be among the first to arrive at the laguna and enjoy perfect solitude and quiet until the crowds arrive. 

We paid S/. 240 with four of us in the taxi, S/. 60 per person, and had 6 hours to get to Laguna 69 and back; if it’s just 2 in a taxi, you’ll pay less, around S/. 150-200 in total.