From Nelson, looking west across Tasman Bay towards Kahurangi National Park, you’ll see the Arthur mountain range skyline rising on the horizon.

The most prominent peaks, The Twins (1809m and 1796m), are Grade 2-3 climbs and require mountaineering experience. The trail to 1795m Mt Arthur summit, on the other hand, caters well to hikers with moderate to high-level backcountry skills (in summer; in winter, alpine equipment is necessary).

It’s still a long, demanding climb above the tree line where dwarfed mountain beech hung with fine strands of pale lichen break out into tussock-covered slopes, loose scree gullies, and pointed ridgelines.

This is rugged alpine terrain, but much more challenging limestone formations remain hidden from view and inaccessible to most: the underground cave systems – Nettlebed, Ellis Basin and Bulmer Cavern – are the deepest and longest in New Zealand.

Starting from Flora car park, the trail follows the Flora Track to Flora Saddle then swings left at the first track junction and climbs through stunted beech forest to Mt Arthur Hut at 1310m. The 8-bunk hut sits just below the bush line.

If this is your destination and not the summit, continue up the ridge past the hut for ten more minutes or so to where the trail wanders out onto a bluff with grand views across Tasman Bay towards Nelson.

The hut also marks the start of the Mt Arthur Summit Route. The route is different from the walking track in that it no longer follows a well-trodden path but a faint line marked with poles and cairns.

It’s not a technical walk and you’re reasonably well protected from strong winds as the trail sidles up the rocky ridge on the eastern side of Horseshoe Basin – until the track draws closer to the summit and the hike becomes decidedly more adventurous.

Especially a week after the first snowfall of the season when the soft snow crystals have reformed into a solid layer of ice. I chided myself countless times for not taking hiking poles. When the sun started creeping towards the horizon, I realized I should have also taken a thermos bottle with hot tea.

We arrived on the summit, a large slanting marble plateau with brilliant panoramic views, just as the last rays of sun lit up the surrounding snow-dusted peaks – Mt Owen and The Twins to the south, The Tableland to the west, and to the east Horseshoe Basin with a backdrop of Tasman Bay.

It’s a striking yet very exposed spot and the low circular cairn marking the top provided little shelter from the icy gusts whipping across the plateau. Take plenty of extra layers if you’re going up early or late in the day.

If you’re not comfortable walking up slippery scree slopes on a trail skirting steep drop-offs or encounter too much snow and ice on the ground above the treeline in the shoulder season, Mt Arthur Hut still makes for a rewarding hike and overnight stay.

The DOC recommends a 4WD to make it up the rutted, potholed road to Flora car park. While many go up in a 2WD with no issues this track access road is in very bad condition.