Hike | Northern Territory | Australia
Your Guide to 3 epic day walks in the West Macdonnell Ranges
Text | Anninka Kraus
Photography | Tobias Kraus
Australia Northern Territory
To the west of Alice Springs, a long mountain range called the West MacDonnell Ranges, or West Macs, in short, offers a spectacular red rock scenery of steep-sided gorge walls, long ridgelines, narrow chasms, and sparkling waterholes. A large section of the ranges, stretching west from Alice Springs for more than 160 kilometres, is part of Tjoritja/West MacDonnell National Park and a stunning Red Centre outback wilderness you must absolutely explore when you’re in Alice Springs.
Several marked trails make the more remote areas of the West MacDonnell Ranges accessible to hikers, the most famous of which is the 231km Larapinta Trail, a challenging desert trail that is often referred to as one of Australia’s best multi-day hikes.
Short access roads and trails frequently connect the Larapinta Trail with Larapinta and Namatjira Drives and allow easy access to hike shorter trail sections. We hiked sections 6, 7, and 12 of the Larapinta Trail without having to arrange transport or camp on the trail, as well as beautiful shorter tracks that are not part of the Larapinta Trail but should also be on your bucket list when you visit the West Macs.
Our three favourite day walks are:
1. The ascent of Mt Sonder from Redbank Gorge, at the opposite end of the park to Alice Springs. This is the final section of the Larapinta Trail, a 15-kilometre, Grade 4 out-and-back trail.
2. The Ellery Creek Loop Walk is officially a 3-day hike, but one that experienced, well-prepared hikers can walk in one day. This 32-kilometre circuit covers sections 6 and 7 of the Larapinta Trail.
3. Perhaps my favourite walk to enjoy the MacDonnell Ranges around sunset, the Ormiston Pound Walk is a quiet 8.5-kilometre loop walk that winds through Ormiston Gorge.
Another worthwhile stop on your way back to Alice Springs is Simpsons Gap. This narrow chasm has a permanent waterhole hemmed in by the soaring red cliffs that glow beautifully in the gold-tinted evening light.
location & park information.
The best time to visit the West MacDonnell Ranges: the park is accessible all year round, but the best time to visit is in the cooler months, between April and September
Directions: Access to the park from Alice Springs is via Larapinta and Namatjira Drives, both sealed roads. Most access roads to campsites, trails, and sights in the park however are unsealed and heavily corrugated, and some require high clearance and may become unpassable after heavy rain.
Accommodation in Tjoritja / West MacDonnell National Park: Basic national park campsites (bush toilet) are provided at Ellery Creek Big Hole and Redbank Gorge, and campsites without any amenities and 4WD access only at Serpentine Chalet and 2-Mile. Ormiston Gorge has flush toilets and showers. All national park campsites are to be paid on site (first come first served, cash only, no change available, at the time of writing $4/night/adult for a basic campsite and $10/night/adult for one with more facilities). Commercial campsites are available at Glen Helen and Standley Chasm, but we don’t recommend either. The individual sites at Glen Helen seemed to be rather small, and at Standley Chasm we were surprised to find out that their car park doubled as the campsite. We visited the chasm, showered, and then left without staying although we’d already paid for the night. If you’re camping at a national park campsite, the lovely staff running Standley Chasm may still let you use their showers for a small fee, I’d ask at the kiosk.
Water: there is very limited water available in the park (not recommended for drinking without treatment), and it’s best if you carry all the drinking water you need with you
West MacDonnell Ranges | Northern Territory
Mt Sonder and Redbank Gorge
Climbing Mt Sonder is the grand finale of the Larapinta Trail (section 12) and makes for a great day hike from Redbank Gorge.
Set out early to beat the heat (if you leave before dawn, you’ll enjoy the changing colours of the rock at sunrise), and follow the narrow trail as it winds up to Mt Sonder Lookout, 2.5 kilometres into the walk.
The track will then gradually climb up the saddle to Mt Sonder summit, the highest point in the West MacDonnell Ranges at 1,380 metres above sea level that boasts long 360-degree views across the desert plains and surrounding ridges.
If you plan to set out early, you may want to camp at Redbank Gorge the night before. There are two camping areas: The Ridgetop Camping Area situated right on the edge of the rim has marvellous sunset views over the gorge, and the Woodland Camping Area is set in lovely savanna woodlands but without the views.
track details.
Hike | Out & back trail | 4-6 hours
Start/End: Redbank Gorge
Distance: 15km
Time: 4-6 hours
Elevation: 780 meters (+/-) (lowest point: 680m / highest point: 1345m)
Difficulty: Grade 4 (moderate to difficult)
Best time to hike: early morning or late afternoon and not in hot weather
Further information: Official Northern Territory Government website
map Mt Sonder
West MacDonnell Ranges | Northern Territory
Ormiston Gorge Pound Walk
Ormiston Gorge in the western section of the park has a picturesque near-permanent waterhole surrounded by sandy banks and tall red cliffs. That was one of our favourite spots in the West Macs, easily accessible (a paved road to the car park and the waterhole is down a 300m, Grade 1 wheelchair-friendly paved path from the car park) yet quiet and incredibly scenic, with stunning walks and viewing platforms.
To get a better view of the gorge from an elevated position, you can climb up the steps to Ghost Gum Lookout at the western side of the gorge and either return by the same track (1.2 km, 45 minutes return, Grade 3 moderate) or make this trail into a circuit by following the Ghost Gum Walk (2.5km loop walk 1.5 hours, Grade 3 moderate) into the gorge and back towards the waterhole.
Both are lovely walks, but to appreciate the beautiful gorge in all its glory, I recommend you hike the 8.5-kilometre Pound Walk. Setting out in an anticlockwise direction, you will first traverse the open ridgeline with panoramic views of the large crater-like pound before the trail drops to the pound floor and follows the dry creek bed through the gorge.
The sun was just setting as we walked between the towering walls glowing in fierce red and deep purple colours, and it was such a stunning sight. In the changing light of day, I really cannot recommend the Pound Walk enough.
I believe you may get your feet wet after heavy rains in the wet season, but in September, we could easily circumnavigate around the few waterholes inside the gorge.
track details.
Hike | Loop trail | 2:30 hours
Start/End: Ormiston Gorge car park
Distance: 8.7km
Time: 2:30 hours
Elevation: 230 meters (+/-) (lowest point: 660m / highest point: 785m)
Difficulty: Grade 3 (moderate)
Best time to hike: early morning or late afternoon and not in hot weather
Further information: Official Northern Territory Government website
map Ormiston Gorge Pound Walk
West MacDonnell Ranges | Northern Territory
Ellery Creek Big Hole Loop Walk
Ellery Creek Big Hole is the largest and, in my opinion, nicest permanent waterhole for swimming in the park. Framed by greenery and sandy banks, this is a great spot to sit out the heat of the day.
There’s a day picnic area at the start of the short, wheelchair-friendly Ellery Creek Walk that runs down to the waterhole and next to it a campground, one of the few in the park suitable for caravans and trailers.
Two loop trails depart from Ellery Creek and explore the surrounding marvellous gorge scenery.
The Dolomite Walk is a short 3-kilometres, 1.5-hour circuit that shares a short track section with the Larapinta Trail. We didn’t do that one, but tackled the 27-kilometre Ellery Creek Loop Walk instead, which takes in sections 6 and 7 of the Larapinta Trail.
The official recommendation is to walk this trail in 3 days, but we made this stunning circuit into a day hike and easily made it back to the carpark by early afternoon. As long as you set out early to beat the heat, the trail is easy enough to walk and well-marked as it takes you along the south side of the Heavitree Range and then loops back between the Heavitree Range and the Chewings Range.
track details.
Hike | Loop trail | 6-8 hours
Start/End: Ellery Creek Big Hole car park
Distance: 26.9km
Time: 6-8 hours
Elevation: 385 meters (+/-) (lowest point: 665m / highest point: 785m)
Difficulty: Grade 4 (moderate to difficult)
Best time to hike: early morning or late afternoon and not in hot weather
Further information: Official Northern Territory Government website
map Ellery Creek Big Hole Loop Walk
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