Walk   |   Wellington   |   New Zealand

The best Walks in Wellington, New Zealand's "Coolest Little Capital in the World"

Text   |   Anninka Kraus
Photography   |   Tobias Kraus

New Zealand Wellington Placeholder
New Zealand Wellington

Lonely Planet sure nailed it, when in 2011, it dubbed a seaside city of 450’000 that is barely known to anyone outside New Zealand, “The Coolest Little Capital in the World”. 

 

Wellington is New Zealand’s heart of all things food, coffee, culture, hills, wind, and politics, of course, and a very appealing place even by international comparison. There’s not terribly much of it, Wellington is fairly small, but then Cuba Street, Wellington’s famed boho mile, embodies quirkiness like few other places.

jump ahead

Lining the short lane are vintage clothing boutiques, record stores, talented buskers, delicious food and coffee spots, galleries, bars, and ice cream parlours. You may run into some tourists, but mostly it’s locals who shop, eat, and drink here during the week. On Saturday, we meet the same crowd at the Harbourside Market, where there’s more delicious food and brilliant coffee.

 

The wind-whipped hills of the capital are such a lively, lovely place (on the few days a year when the temperature rises above 15 degrees and wind speed is below 60 km/h) one is tempted even to overlook the notoriously bad weather (during the rest of the year). 

 

Wellingtonians generally do, I was told, and have resigned themselves to be relentlessly battered by strong and gusty northerlies (or southerlies, they’re all strong and gusty). 

 

So long, that is, as they’re not the owner of one of the mansions that cling precariously to the hilltops and someone else’s roof lifts off in a violent gust, not their own.

where to stay & eat

Wellington is known for award-winning eateries and coffee shops, but not so much for hiking. Located at the bottom of the North Island, the city is miles away from large mountain ranges or one of New Zealand’s 10 Great Walks (soon to become 11 with the addition of the Hump Ridge Track in Fiordland). I’m not aware of any well-known multiple-day hiking trails close to Wellington, but the city has some brilliant day walks instead.

 

The unique inner and outer Town Belts that encircle the capital are a beautiful, vast expanse of greenery with a network of well-maintained, marked walkways spreading from north to south.

 

The Green Belt concept was developed in England in the early 19th century when the large industrial cities struggled with overcrowding in ever-expanding suburbs. Based on that idea, the surveyors’ plan of Wellington in 1840 marks large areas on the hills surrounding the city as ‘reserved for the enjoyment of the public and not to be built upon’.

 

As Wellington’s population grew, the resolve to save this land from urban development weakened and Town Belt land was appropriated for public purposes. What parkland remains today, however, still fulfils its original purpose of simply being green and undeveloped.

 

And there is no better way to discover the city than to explore its well-marked trails that run between Mt Kaukau and the South Coast, through the inner city, residential suburbs, and the Town Belt, to the sea.

 

The walks are surprisingly varied and offer wonderful clifftop, city, harbour, and ocean views, and an occasional glimpse into the living room of a Wellingtonian. Some of the city’s most popular coffee shops are dotted along the way and you’re guaranteed a tremendously good workout, forever slogging up a hill (battling ferocious headwinds), stumbling down the other side (almost getting blown over by ferocious tailwinds), only to start again on another hill (why, headwinds again).

 

If you’re looking for further reading on any of the walkways, Wellington City Council does an excellent job of providing maps and track notes for every walk on their website. The only difficulty with so many walks to choose from is picking a couple to get to know the city in a few days.

 

I’ve selected our favourite eight walks – three in the city and southern suburbs, two walks to the north of Wellington, one along the Kapiti Coast, and two at Cape Palliser Bay at the southernmost point of the North Island, a 2-hour drive from Wellington.

 

If you don’t have time to do all eight, I suggest you pick one trail stretching south from the city and one meandering north and either explore the Kapiti Coast on the Escarpment Track or the remote Wairarapa.

 

Wellington has an extensive public transport system operating in the region, making it easy to make your back into the city at the end of these point-to-point trails. However, you will need a car to get to the lighthouse and the Putangirua Pinnacles at Cape Palliser Bay, where there’s no public transport.

 

Walkers and trail runners, who’re interested in a longer workout more than strolling, eating, and sightseeing along the way, can combine the Skyline and Northern walkways, which intersect at Mt Kaukau, and the City to Sea and Southern walkways that connect in Shorland Park at Island Bay.

Wellington  |   New Zealand
Walk   |   Loop trail   |  0.45-1.5 hours

Mount Victoria Lookout Walkway

Mount Victoria Lookout is Wellington’s most popular vantage point perched on a hill above the city and harbour. It’s easily accessible by bus and car, with a large parking lot located just behind the lookout, or you can follow one of two loop trails signposted with purple markers up the hillside.


The longer loop, starting from Courtenay Place, runs up Majoribanks Street and through pine forest in the Town Belt, returning to the CBD via Oriental Bay. The shorter circuit has two convenient access points, one at the top of Majoribanks Street, the other on Bayview Terrace.

track details.

Start/End: long loop: Courtenay Place / short loop: at the top of Majoribanks Street or Bayview Terrace
Distance: 2.6km / 4.6km
Time: 45 minutes / 1.5 hours
Difficulty: easy
Best time to walk: all year
Further information: Wellington Regional Trails website

Wellington  |   New Zealand
Walk   |   Out-and-back trail   |  30 minutes

Cape Palliser Lighthouse

At the southernmost point of the North Island, on the wild coast of The Wairarapa stands a gorgeous candy-striped cast-iron lighthouse dating to 1897.


Scaling 250 steps to the bottom of Cape Palliser Lighthouse is not much of a walk, I must admit, but the brilliant panoramic views of Cape Palliser at sunset make the winding 2-hour drive from Wellington across the Remutaka Range absolutely worthwhile.


The Cape is also home to the North Island’s largest fur seal colony, and a 25-minute drive down the road, back towards Martinborough, you’ll find the stunning Putangiura Pinnacles and two longer walks that can be joined into a loop track.


This is a rather remote part of the Lower North Island with few shops or eateries past Martinborough. Take a picnic lunch or stop at The Land Girl in Pirinoa for fantastic coffee and home-baked goods. Lake Ferry Hotel on Lake Onoke also does great seafood lunches.


The road is sealed except for the last stretch, which is gravel, but still suitable for 2WDs.