Okarito is a sleepy little holiday village north of Franz Josef Township famous for its lagoon – New Zealand’s largest unmodified wetland is home to more than 70 species – and beach with a backdrop of the Southern Alps.

We came here for a run, after two days of heavy rain when a lighter shade of grey sky promised a short reprieve from the heavy downpours. My expectations beyond that of a good workout were rather low I must admit, but this stretch of coast managed to win me over completely and on a wet, rainy day with the clouds so low they were touching the sea at that (your typical West Coast day).

Three walking tracks provide access to the lagoon and native coastal forest cloaking the shore. The Okarito Wetland Walk (1km) is the easiest and shortest of these walkways and meanders along a boardwalk curving across the lagoon.

If you’re keen on a slightly longer walk to an elevated position overlooking the lagoon and coastline and views of the Southern Alps on a clear day, continue on the track as it disappears into a beautiful native coastal forest of silver pine, rimu, and rata. After fifteen minutes of walking or so, the Okarito Trig Walk (4.2km) forks off to the left and climbs to the Okarito Trig viewpoint.

We skipped the viewpoint and instead continued straight ahead, following the Three Mile Pack Track and Okarito Coastal Walk in a gently undulating climb through the forest to the highest point at Kohuamarua Bluff. Although the rain had stopped hours ago, there was water everywhere, heavy mist suspended in mid-air and raindrops trickling down the rock face from pillows of moss into a foaming, gurgling stream at the side of the track.

The trail then drops down to Three Mile Lagoon and a long swing bridge across the estuary. You can cross to the other side and explore the lagoon at low tide, but no track continues beyond this point.

From Three Mile Lagoon, you have the option to return to Okarito along the beach (note that the coastal route is only safe to walk within 1-2 hours either side of low tide) or retrace your steps on the Three Mile Pack Track back to the start.